Simultaneously, with the intensification of the wars and the takeover of the provinces by the Taliban, this group had already sieged the country even before capturing Kabul. The people had last moral and were taking preparation for Taliban rule, particularly women. The imposition of strict rules on men’s and women’s clothing during the previous period of Taliban rule over the country and the imposition of restrictions on citizens in the areas under the rule of this group in the past few years caused the residents of the west of the country to take the preparation of adapting the Taliban rule. Along with the limp and hat-wearing men, some women also tried to change their clothing and the burqa (Taliban’s preferred hijab) sales market has warmed up again after two decades of hiatus. Most of the women in the western provinces have been forced to buy burqas to avoid the anger of the new rulers. The increase in demand for this product, which had experienced stagnation for nearly two decades, caused its price to increase in the market. Small shops selling burqas expanded and the production rate of this product has increased dramatically.
Rahimullah, a shopkeeper in “Lilami (Second Hand Product) Market of Herat, where most of the burqa shops and production workshops are located, says about the increase in demand and the price of burqa: “10 days before Herat fell to the Taliban’s control when the districts were falling to the Taliban’s control and the group was getting close to the capital province, the sale of burqas was increasing day by day. Many women started to buy burqas. When the Taliban entered the city, the sale of burqas tripped. Everyone was afraid and the rumor that the Taliban would deal harshly with women not covered in Burqa had already spread.”
He says about the expansion of his activities in the field of burqa production: “I used to have a burqa shop where I bought burqas from production workshops and sold them in my shop, but when I noticed that the sales were high, I established a burqa production workshop myself.” Currently, four people work in this workshop and the burqas in our showroom are all our own products. Thank God, I have many customers from Herat, Ghor, and Badghis.” He further said with gratitude to God.
Rahimullah adds: “Several shopkeepers from Ghor and Badghis are my regular wholesale customers. They come to Herat for shopping once every three or four months and each one buys as many burqas as they need. They take from 50 to 100 burqas each time they visit Herat. The demand for burqa in respective provinces is much higher than in any other province.
The establishment of new burqa production workshops in Herat city shows that the market of burqa sales has become prosperous with the takeover of the country by the Taliban. Aziz Ahmad, who had a shop selling burqas and hijabs before the Taliban entered Herat city, has established a large burqa production workshop due to the increase in demand for this product. He produces between 50 and 60 burqas daily for his customers in Herat, Ghor, and Badghis to respond to the orders timely and accordingly.
He seems happy with the prosperity of his business and says: “I used to have a burqa and hijab shop where I sold burqas and hijabs to my customers limited to Herat city only. With the raise of the Taliban, the demand graph for this product has ascended significantly. I have partnered with my brother, who also owned a burqa shop, and we have built a workshop. Thank God, the sales are very high. Our business is also successful and we have employed children who have now their own businesses even. 20 people are currently working with us in the two departments of embroidering and sewing in our burqa production chain.”
The owner of the burqa embroidery workshop adds: “20 people work in the workshop and sew between 50 and 60 burqas daily. I sell a small number in the shop and we sell the rest as wholesale and at a lower price to shopkeepers who are more from Ghor and Badghis. Most of our Badghisi and Ghori customers are shopkeepers.”
Simultaneously, with the increase in demand for the burqa, the price of this product has also increased by 50 to 60 percent compared to the time before the Taliban ruled the country. Aziz Ahmad says: “We sued to sell a burqa for 600 AFN, now we sell it for 900 to 1,000 AFN, and the Karapnaz (Full Body Covering) cloth, which used to cost 1,000 AFN, has now reached 1,500 and 1,600 AFN.” Burqas that used to cost 2,000.00 AFN is being sold for 3,000.00 AFN nowadays in the markets.”
The demand and price of burqa have increased in the west; while, there has been a severe economic recession after the Taliban regained power in the country. Thousands of people have lost their jobs and the scope for economic activities has narrowed down to backyard-oriented and scoped businesses. Experts in economic affairs consider the burqa as one of the exorbitant expenses, and considering the chaotic economic situation, the citizens describe its promotion as a severe blow to the families’ economy.
Ahmad Fahim (pseudonym), a professor of economics at a private university in Herat, says: “In my opinion, wearing a burqa in the current situation is an excessive consumption for most families. The Taliban should know that our country is now in a severe economic recession. Apart from a small spectrum, the majority of the people live below the poverty line and survive with minimum income. In such a case, making it mandatory for women to wear the burqa is a fatal blow to the half-closed and broken economy of families.” He adds: “Each family is a small unit of society and plays an essential role in the growth of the society’s economy. If the amount of consumption and savings is not measured correctly, it will have a negative effect on the performance and economic cycles of the country. The Taliban should understand that by promoting the burqa and Longi (turban) and similar cultures, they affect the economic cycle of families and ultimately the country.”
The promotion and demand for the burqa among women have dramatically increased with the takeover of the country by the Taliban. So far no country has stepped forward to recognize the regime of this group as a legitimate government. Every strategy that the Taliban has adopted and imposed on Afghan society has been strongly condemned by the international community and Afghan citizens. Citizens fear that with the full establishment of the Taliban and the recognition of this group by the international community, more severe restrictions would be imposed. The group would behave very aggressively and harshly in case of not being obeyed by the people in terms of their clothing and appearance policies.