Since the Taliban took control of Afghanistan, the use of traditional clothing has increased, particularly in the country’s major cities. Silk scarves, national shirts, and traditional vests are now being sold in Kabul shops more than ever before. Several Kabul residents say they wear these clothes to preserve the country’s cultural identity and believe that, in circumstances where individual freedoms have been restricted, wearing traditional clothing is a form of expressing identity, authenticity, and even resistance against the Taliban’s cultural pressures.
Several Kabul residents say that in the past they mostly wore modern clothes, but now they are experiencing a combination of traditional and modern dress. They add that in the current situation, this choice is an option that is both rooted in cultural beliefs and appears more compatible with existing social conditions.
Fereshta, one of Kabul’s residents, says that by wearing Afghanistan’s traditional clothing, she experiences a sense of belonging to the country and pride. She considers these clothes an inseparable part of Afghanistan’s cultural identity.
Fereshta adds: “Although hand-sewn clothes cost more than other clothes, due to my love for my country’s culture, even during the Afghanistan republic era, I used these clothes on special occasions. On one hand, it gave me a sense of pride, and on the other hand, I wanted to keep my country’s culture alive.”
Samira, another Kabul resident, says that using traditional clothing can strengthen social unity and solidarity, because by wearing these clothes, people feel themselves to be part of a shared history and civilization. According to her, people should use these types of clothes for the growth of the local economy and the country’s domestic industries.
Samira also adds: “Using traditional clothing strengthens social unity and solidarity, because by wearing traditional clothes, people consider themselves part of a shared history and civilization. On the other hand, these clothes support local artisans and tailors, help the growth of domestic industries, and play a key role in introducing Afghanistan’s culture and art at the global level.”
Meanwhile, Abdullah, another Kabul resident, says he wears Afghanistan clothing because of comfort. He adds that he sometimes wears modern clothes as well, but in current circumstances, he considers wearing traditional clothing more harmonious with society’s situation.
Abdullah explains: “In the current situation, most people use shalwar kameez. This matter can have various reasons, including that the current system gives priority to informal clothing, the heat of the weather is also influential, and some people traditionally had this style of dress before, but during the republic era of Afghanistan, due to the formal atmosphere, they could not freely wear it. Now, Afghanistan clothing is seen more in society compared to other formal clothes.”
The increase in people’s inclination toward local clothing and the expansion of its use have transformed the job market and created new opportunities. Some shopkeepers say that the use of local clothing has increased compared to two years ago, and significant changes have occurred in their sewing style, design, and patterns.
Qais, one of the shopkeepers who sells traditional cloths in Kabul, says that people’s tendency toward Afghanistan clothing has increased significantly. He designs traditional clothes with a combination of modern style and says he has good sales.
Qais adds: “The price of clothes we rent ranges from one thousand to six thousand Afghanis. But the price we sell ranges from six thousand to 30 or 35 thousand Afghanis. All these clothes are handmade; women do the leather work, the embroidery of each dress costs about one thousand five hundred to two thousand Afghanis, and I obtain their fabric from second-hand shops and restore it. Our work and business in this field have become very good.”
Sitara also designs and sells local clothes with modern designs. She considers people’s interest in traditional clothing an opportunity for her growth and progress.
She adds, “Sometimes our orders are many and sometimes few. We prepare Afghanistan’s traditional and old clothes along with modern models in a combined form that has many supporters.”
The combination of traditional fashion with Western styles has made Afghanistan’s clothing find wider application in foreign countries as well.
Farah, one of the officials of a traditional clothing production workshop, says her workshop has many customers inside and outside the country. She adds that they try to design and offer their products in accordance with society’s taste and the demands of the younger generation.
Farah also says: “Most of our customers are young girls; both inside the country and abroad. In our workshop, we produce various types of traditional clothing, including Hazaragi clothes and other Afghanistan varieties.”
Meanwhile, some cultural experts express satisfaction with the revival of traditional clothing among the people. They say that the people of Afghanistan have once again connected with their past culture after years, a culture whose examples, such as shirt pleats, can be seen in inscriptions and artistic works from the Kushan and Hephthalite periods.
Kitabkhan Faizi, a cultural expert, says: “The clothes that have become popular again in recent years, their examples can be observed in sculptures and remaining motifs from the Kushan and Hephthalite periods, especially in works discovered from the Gandhara region. This style of clothing has been common among people since ancient times and has been passed down from generation to generation. Unfortunately, during more than four decades of war, these clothes faded and gave way to Western clothing. Fortunately, today traditional clothes have become popular again, especially women’s clothing with Afghanistan’s indigenous style is widely seen in markets and has extensive cultural influence. This action is an important step in reviving cultural identity.”
Traditional arts such as “Khanjardoozi”, “Graphdoozi”, “Pookhtadoozi”, “Chakandoozi”, “Sikadoozi”, and ‘Shishakaari” are used in sewing Afghanistan’s traditional clothes, and wearing these clothes, especially in ceremonies such as henna nights, has become a common culture among different ethnic groups. Despite the varying prices of these clothes, which range from six thousand to 35 thousand Afghanis, people’s interest in using them has remained steadfast.
You can read the Persian version of this report here:
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