Many residents of Kabul say that to stay safe from Taliban scrutiny and to gain the favor of their forces, they have been forced to wear the Kandahari hat, grow beards, and adopt traditional clothing. While some view this change as a return to traditional values, public accounts indicate that for many, this shift is primarily out of necessity and adaptation to conditions that now affect even the simplest daily choices.
Some men say that to avoid problems and not attract attention, they have adopted clothing similar to that of the Taliban. According to them, this change is less a personal choice and more a form of adaptation to the prevailing circumstances. They see the shift in clothing style as part of the broader impact of the current situation on everyday life, noting that after the Taliban takeover, the freedom to choose one’s attire has been taken away.
Conversely, others view this trend as a return to traditional values and welcome it. They emphasize the importance of preserving local culture but also insist that such clothing should not be imposed on people by force.
These days, in various corners of Kabul, the shine of mirrors sewn onto Kandahari hats has become part of the city’s new appearance. Many residents say that this change is not only superficial but also reflects deeper transformations in men’s lives following the Taliban’s rise to power.
Ahmad, a resident of Kabul, says that after the Taliban took control of Afghanistan, the Kandahari hat and traditional clothing replaced his colorful kurtas and fashion-forward outfits.
He adds that his change in taste regarding tailoring and clothing selection has been influenced by the attire of the Taliban and largely driven by pressure and fear of the Ministry for the Propagation of Virtue and Prevention of Vice. He explains that previously he tried to dress according to popular trends in society, but now he cannot make decisions freely.
Ahmad says, “I used to never leave the house without my traditional coat, which I had in various styles and colors. At first, I continued wearing them, but gradually, restrictions increased. To move around the city safely, I had to buy new clothes. Eventually, I even got a Kandahari hat. Now I cannot even decide about my beard and hair as I wish. It is really bad, but there is no choice; you cannot face a Morality Police officer every moment.”
Shamsullah, another Kabul resident, says that he also wears the Kandahari hat, which has recently become widespread, out of necessity. He explains that Taliban forces harass people less if they dress according to Taliban preferences. According to him, wearing a Kandahari hat reduces questioning at checkpoints.
Shamsullah says, “When you wear a Kandahari hat, the Taliban ask fewer questions at checkpoints. That is why I wear it out of compulsion. If you wear other hats, they bother you more. I personally do not like this hat, but now people’s mindset has changed; most people wear traditional clothing and a Kandahari hat. In some offices, if you do not have the hat and beard, it is difficult to get work done. I have often seen that the work of those whose appearance does not match Taliban preferences is delayed.”
This resident adds that the Taliban treat those who dress according to their views more favorably. He continues, “The Taliban stop those wearing pants more often, but those with a Kandahari hat and beard are questioned less. I have seen this many times. When you have the hat and beard, you are treated with more respect.”
On the other hand, some men say that the Kandahari hat is part of Afghan culture and its adoption does not pose a challenge. From their perspective, the Taliban have not forced people to wear it, and many do so out of interest and cultural adherence.
Sultanuddin, another resident of Kabul, says that he likes the Kandahari hat and wears it for that reason. He adds that over time, people have grown accustomed to the conditions and the system, which is why they increasingly adopt this style of clothing.
He says, “Overall, it is good to wear the Kandahari hat and traditional clothing because it is part of Afghan culture. Whether the regime wants to promote it or not, when people get used to a situation, they follow it themselves. Government employees may use this attire more due to work requirements, but ordinary people also adopt it widely. Personally, I am satisfied with this trend because it connects to our culture.”
After taking control of Afghanistan on August 15, 2021, the Taliban mandated that men grow beards, wear hats, and use traditional clothing. Now, men of various ages wear the Kandahari hat and traditional garments.
The Taliban’s insistence on traditional clothing has led even some who previously wore the pakol to abandon it and wear the Kandahari hat to gain the group’s favor. Alongside these pressures, in many cases, how individuals are treated in society has become dependent on their attire.
You can read the Persian version of this report here:
